Chef Gilberto Cetina discovered his love of cooking seafood not so much in a kitchen, but when diving in the waters off the Yucatán Peninsula. Though he grew up mostly in Orange County, the Mexico-born Cetina came to appreciate fresh seafood as a teenager, spending his summers diving for conch and octopus in Yucatan.
He honed his culinary skills while working at his parents’ Los Angeles restaurant Chichen Itza, then found his own fame in 2017 when he established Holbox (pronounced “hole-bosh”) in Historic South Central L.A.’s Mercado La Paloma. The restaurant—named after a Yucatán island whose Mayan name means “black hole”—showcases specialties from Mexico’s coastal regions, enhanced by Southern California and Baja California ingredients. The results earned Cetina his first of three consecutive Bib Gourmands in 2019, then a James Beard Finalist nomination in 2023, and finally a Michelin Star in 2024. Also, Holbox was recently voted #1 among Yelp’s top 100 U.S. restaurants.
In April 2025, Cetina will participate in the acclaimed culinary festival Pebble Beach Food & Wine, held on the coast of Monterey County. Here, Centina offers a chef’s perspective on great places to dine and shop in California.
Where do you live? My house is in Torrance, but I mostly live at Holbox in South Central, Los Angeles.
Why there? I chose to stay near Mercado La Paloma, home to both my family's restaurant, Chichen Itza, and Holbox. This community has been my anchor since I moved to California as a young teen, and it will remain my home for decades to come.
Who or what is your greatest California love? My family and staff at Chichen Itza and Holbox. The majority of my staff have been with me from the start, so I owe a lot of my success to their efforts and my family’s unwavering support.
What is the biggest misperception about Californians? That we are all play and no work.
What is the stereotype that most holds true? California has the freshest and largest variety of readily available seafood in the U.S.
What is your favorite Golden State splurge? Live sea urchin from Santa Barbara is worth every penny, especially those from Sea Stephanie Fish.
Time for a road trip—where are you going? My next road trip is to Pebble Beach this year. I am excited to enjoy driving along the California coastline and enjoy the ocean view.
If you could decree an official state culinary experience, what would it be? The Pebble Beach Food & Wine Festival is a must-experience event, bringing together the world's most talented and prestigious chefs for a weekend of culinary excellence against the stunning backdrop of Pebble Beach. I’m honored to be part of this year’s festival, and if you’re attending, I’d love for you to stop by my station at Sunday’s Grand Tasting Pavilion, hosted by Palo Alto, to say hi.
What is your favorite way to play in California? Just a nice relaxing day at the beach. I don’t have many days where I can slow down and enjoy being surrounded by beautiful scenery, so enjoying them where I can is my favorite way to play.
Where would you go for the ultimate shopping spree in California? A few hours at Japanese Knife Imports, learning about and shopping for fine Japanese kitchen knives. Then off to the farmers’ market to find some beautiful ingredients to cook with.
Best California song? My favorite California song is “California Love” by Tupac featuring Dr. Dre. It brings a sense of nostalgia, reminding me of my youth when West Coast rap was on the rise, giving a voice to the community through music.
How would your California dream day unfold? I would begin my morning with a relaxing coffee with my wife at home, and then make my way to the beach, either Marina del Ray or off of Malibu to go fishing for the day. I would end the night with a fantastic dinner at Chef Jon Yao’s Kato, which is one of my favorites.