The northernmost preserve in California’s Redwood National and State Parks system, Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park sits just outside Crescent City and less than 20 miles from the state’s northern border. Called “Jed Smith” by locals, this park filled with ancient trees is one of the densest rainforests on earth and an ideal spot to experience redwood magic.
Here, in California’s pristine old-growth forest, you can tread under the shade of skyscraping trees and sleep among beds of feathery ferns. Keep a keen eye out for scampering chipmunks, frolicking otters, and bright yellow banana slugs that slither along the forest floor. Follow in the footsteps of the Tolowa people, who once lived here in subterranean homes crafted from redwood planks. Their descendants still rely on the forest for practical and spiritual purposes today.
What to Do
Get your bearings with a scenic drive down Howland Hill Road. The narrow dirt road, once a stagecoach line, follows Mill Creek, offering nonstop views of giant redwoods that are almost close enough to touch. Expect a 45-minute trip without stopping—but it’s a good idea to bake in extra time to hop out and walk at trailheads along the way.
The wild waters of California’s only undammed river, the Smith River, wind through the park. Purchase a fishing license and try your luck at catching the Chinook salmon and steelhead swimming through the emerald current. Near the park campgrounds, you’ll find access points to take an invigorating river dip (use extra caution when flows are high).
Of course, the main draw here is the old-growth trees that stretch upwards of 300 feet into the sky. Must-sees include the Grove of Titans. Home to some of the largest redwood trees by volume in the world, the grove can be explored by walking along a 1,500-foot-long elevated boardwalk that protects the giants’ roots and the spongy, moss-laden forest floor.
Where to Hike
Although the center of the park is largely undeveloped, Jed Smith still provides plenty of opportunities to hike. Scramble over jutting redwood roots and discover trees as wide as a truck along the Boy Scout Tree Trail, which leads to gently trickling Fern Falls, a 6-mile round-trip adventure.
For an easier option, try Stout Memorial Grove Trail. The 0.7-mile loop is perfect for little legs and features a side trail to a swimming hole. Or find 2.2 miles of shaded solitude on the less-traveled Leiffer and Ellsworth Loops. Your adventure starts on an 1800s-era plank road before dropping into a vine-maple-filled canyon.
How to Camp
The park’s 89 campsites, complete with picnic tables and fire rings, fill up quickly, so make a reservation well ahead of time before planning an overnight stay. The park also has four ADA-accessible cabins which can sleep up to six people on bunk beds. Guests lucky enough to find a spot can be lulled to sleep by the rushing Smith River and awake to dappled light streaking through the redwood trees.
