Canvassing California History

California’s capital revives the Gold Rush era of miners, merchants, and madams in Old Sacramento’s tidy grid of cobblestoned streets and wood-planked sidewalks. Amid blocks filled with old-timey candy shops and sarsaparilla-serving saloons, the California State Railroad Museum houses lavishly restored steam locomotives, and the Sacramento History Museum overflows with 1800s artifacts. Immerse yourself in Golden State history, then get to know Sacramento’s farm-to-fork food scene. In Midtown, the past merges seamlessly with the present in a buzzing neighborhood filled with bars and eateries. Sample the region’s agricultural bounty at Mulvaney’s B&L, where the menu changes daily, or taste a Cali-modern take on Southern favorites like beignets and fried green tomatoes at The Porch. 

At sunset, sip a cocktail at the Delta King riverboat hotel, then fall asleep in an elegant stateroom and wake to the soothing chatter of wild geese.

Thirty miles northeast of Sacramento, Auburn is a prime spot for epicurean carb-loading. Pack up a croissant from The Baker and the Cakemaker or a bagel sandwich from Baked & Brewed, then visit the grand Auburn Courthouse, a Classical Revival showpiece built atop the town’s highest hill. In its first-floor museum, 192 troy ounces of Placer County gold lie glittering under glass. See Auburn’s sporty side on hiking and biking trails at Auburn State Recreation Area and Hidden Falls Regional Park, or go for a mellow kayak paddle on Upper Lake Clementine. At day’s end, choose a seat at one of the town’s bustling breweries—Crooked Lane, Knee Deep, Moonraker, or Auburn Ale House. 

In Nevada City, picture-book Victorians buzz with homespun restaurants, chic wine bars, and come-hither shops. Browse J.J. Jackson's for toys, handbags, kitchen tools, and travel gear. Pick up one-of-a-kind gifts and cards at The Gray Goose. Stop in to Kitkitdizzi for artisan jewelry, housewares, and self-care goods. Then take a five-mile drive to Empire Mine State Historic Park, the site of California’s oldest, largest, deepest, longest, and richest gold mine, which operated from 1850 to 1956. Head back to town for live music and cocktails at Golden Era, then catch a show at the Miners Foundry Cultural Center or a play at the Nevada Theatre, the oldest theater west of the Mississippi. End the day in an elegantly remodeled room at the National Exchange Hotel, a Gold Rush charmer overlooking downtown.

The Feather River flows through Quincy, a friendly Plumas County burg that prides itself on a thriving arts culture and easy access to wild places. Linger over a late breakfast at Patti’s Thunder Cafe, then stroll the 17-block Heritage Walk to see some of the town’s historic buildings. The self-guided tour starts at the Plumas County Museum, home to Maidu Native American baskets and pioneer bric-a-brac. Pop into the Plumas Arts Gallery, housed in a renovated saloon, to see what the local creatives are making. A five-mile drive north brings you to the trailhead for the pine-shaded Cascade Trail, which parallels Spanish Creek. At the nearby Butterfly Valley Botanical Area, you can see insect-eating California pitcher plants chow down on unsuspecting bugs. When the sun heads west, pull into Quintopia Brewing for a burger and blonde ale. 

Lassen Volcanic National Park Highway cuts through its namesake park from south to north, winding past gnarled mountain peaks and dense conifer forests. History takes the long view here: Although volcanic rumblings began about 27,000 years ago, Lassen Peak didn’t erupt until the early 20th century. The now-quiet volcano rests amid a landscape dotted with otherworldly volcanic features: steaming sulfur vents, belching mud pots, boiling thermal pools, and rumbling fumaroles. Trek the switch-backing trail to Lassen Peak’s summit, stroll Bumpass Hell’s boardwalks past boiling springs and hissing steam vents, or take a refreshing swim at Terrace Lake. 

From hundreds of miles away, you can pick out the massive bulk of Mt. Shasta, a sleeping volcanic giant that soars to 14,179 feet. To see the cone-shaped monolith close up, start at the Sisson Meadow trailhead just two blocks from downtown Mt. Shasta City. Walk a boardwalk trail through a wetland framed by mighty Shasta and its imposing neighbors, Mt. Eddy and Black Butte. Or drive up Everitt Memorial Highway for a more ambitious hike from Bunny Flat to the Sierra Club Alpine Lodge, a stone structure built in 1922 as a shelter for Shasta summit climbers. Back in town, you’ll find lamb burgers at Pipeline Craft Taps and Kitchen and cozy dreams at the Inn at Mount Shasta.  

Plan to linger a while in Redding, a friendly urban hub on the Sacramento River. Spend half a day at the 300-acre campus of Turtle Bay Exploration Park, where an eco-museum, animal exhibits, and botanical garden offer learning opportunities for all ages. The park is bisected by the spectacular Sundial Bridge, a glass-decked architectural gem that’s one of the world’s largest functioning sundials. Take a spin on the easy-pedaling bike trails that start at the bridge and trace alongside the river, or take time to explore downtown Redding’s vinyl, book, vintage, and crystal shops. For dinner, find an array of food-truck fare at The Park or sit down to a brick-oven pizza dinner at Mosaic, inside the LEED-certified Sheraton Redding Hotel. 

In Corning, olives aren’t king, but rather queen. Sevillano or queen olives—the firm, green fruit that tops martinis—have been grown, brined, and canned here since 1897. Taste peppery olive oil at Nash’s Olive Oil or Corning Olive Oil Company, or order a tangy tapenade sandwich at Olive Pit. Explore more of Tehama County’s agricultural bounty by visiting local farms. At 10-acre MoonBeam Farm, learn how loofahs are grown and harvested, or take home a bouquet of fragrant dried lavender or lavender bath salts, oils, and herb mixes. Sample succulent figs at Maywood Farms, or stock up on bags of organic walnuts and hazelnuts at Handy Farms.  

Leafy Chico is home to elm-dotted streets and arcadian Bidwell Park, one of the country’s largest municipal parks. Pay a visit to the grand Bidwell Mansion, bounded by fragrant roses and towering ornamental trees that were planted by Chico’s founder, General John Bidwell. His three-story home, a marvel of 1860s ingenuity, boasted California’s first indoor plumbing. Afterward, visit one of the West’s oldest and most revered craft breweries, Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. Dine at the taphouse or peer into copper kettles on a brewery tour. When evening falls, catch a concert at Chico’s Senator Theatre, a 1928 vaudeville gem that boasts its original chandelier and murals. Head over to the 1904 Hotel Diamond for a sleep steeped in Chico history. 

While driving Interstate 5, don’t miss the town of Williams, home to a road-tripper’s landmark, the bountiful deli, restaurant, and gift shop at Granzella’s. More than 400,000 drivers each year pull over here to shop for pickled preserves and fruity jams, to dine on prime rib, or just to marvel at the 10-foot-high stuffed polar bear. Less than a mile away on E Street, the Sacramento Valley Museum houses exhibits depicting 19th-century California ranch life within the walls of a 1911 high school. For a soak-worthy side trip, drive 24 miles southwest to Wilbur Hot Springs, an off-the-grid health sanctuary with no cell service or Wi-Fi to spoil the back-to-nature vibes. Forget your cares as you sink into warm pools fed by a naturally bubbling hot spring.